Federated States of Micronesia ( Pohnpei and Chuuk) ( Leg 25)

February 2024

Daniel joined us at around 10.20 on Thursday the 1st and once he had unpacked, we all went shopping in 2 parts, visiting at least 4 stores to get it done. It was a long afternoon and we were back on board enjoying a beer before a slightly later than usual dinner. For now, we would have to go without tomatoes ( the only few we found were squashed and already rotting), cucumber and lettuce and there were no eggs to be had anywhere on Pohnpei! On the 2^nd, Daniel and Shawn went for a hike to a viewpoint overlooking the anchorage and had an interesting time looking at the scenery and old WWII munitions and bunkers. Ally stayed onboard to finish putting provisions away and trying to resolve website issues ( she needs an expert to help her out as computer language is all gobbledeegook to her! Lol) and printer problems ( that was a fruitless task, too). After dinner together, Daniel took the dinghy and went to meet up with people he had met during his time on land for a drink or two. Late morning on the 3^rd, Ally and Shawn went for a walk for some exercise and to pick up a few bits and pieces and ended up having lunch out before making their way back to Daniel on Imagination mid afternoon. It was a somewhat overcast day and it got more miserable as the day went on and bought some very heavy rain overnight which replenished our water tank nicely. We had resigned ourselves to the fact that Sunday 4^th was going to be a wash out and so Ally caught up on some online stuff, Shawn chilled, reading the news etc and Daniel continued with his travel planning. The morning was wetter than the afternoon and by lunchtime, although it wasn’t sunny, it was much brighter and Daniel went ashore again for a while.

On Monday the 5^th, we were all up early ready for a day ashore. We had arranged to pick up Lynn, from neighbouring yacht HaiYou so that she could join us for the day. Unfortunately, her husband was unable to join us, but we had a great day together. We walked 20 minutes to the car hire place and by 10am, we were off on our adventures with Daniel as the nominated driver. Our first stop was a formal one, The Port Authority. They require prior notice of intention to depart and we were all wanting to depart the following day. However, the guy that Shawn and Lynn spoke to at the office didn’t really know what he was to do with that information and didn’t take any details, just told them to come alongside to do the formalities when ready to leave. Our next stop was to find some Petroglyphs. As is always the case, they are on someone’s land and so we paid a small fee to have the landowner and a puppy escort us through the undergrowth for 5 minutes until we came to a rounded rocky area. We were offered no real information about the site, apart from “ be careful, it’s been raining so very slippery”, as noone really knows when , by whom or why they were created. With that, we carefully wandered around looking at the etchings, figuring out what we were looking at – men, feet, fish, lobsters and many what we thought were knives, but were told they were weaving looms. The puppy made Ally laugh when he slipped and then rolled down a slippery slope, but then she promptly went and did the same thing. That guy was right – it was definitely slippery! On the way back to the car, Daniel asked about another rock he had read about and we changed direction as we were led to Vagina Rock. It was clear to see how it got that name – they are apparently the genitalia of a mythical woman who broke into pieces. Obviously the boys had to have photos taken! Late morning, we arrived at Nan Madol and spent over an hour in the ancient ruins. Even though Ally and Shawn had visited last month, it was a different experience this time – the tide was much lower so the trail was dry, and they saw areas they missed last time. It would be great to travel back in time to see it as it was when first completed and find out exactly what went on there. We sat in the car to eat our lunch before finding Pilen Seleur freshwater pools where Giant Mottled Eels reside. The eels are considered sacred in the State of Pohnpei, featuring prominently in local mythology, and are believed to understand and protect. They are not eaten but instead are fed tins of mackerel ( bought by visitors) by the families who own the land for a fee, of course. We saw 3 of the large eels, but one in particular was swimming in the shallows and he got a whole tin of mackerel to himself as the other 2 remained at the other end of the pool. Time was marching on and so we headed off back to Mangrove Bay, but not before we had driven through Palikir, the capital city of the entire Federated States of Micronesia. Considering this, the only buildings we saw were government departments and offices – the area is not heavily populated at all, but it has only been the Capital since 1989, when it was moved from Kolonia, which remains the capital of Pohnpei State. Ally found an apple watch deep down in the pocket on the back of the passenger seat of the car. It had no battery power and so she took it back to Imagination with her to figure out how to charge it up in order to return it to it’s owner, but with no charging port and no magnetic apple chargers onboard it was impossible. The car was due back at 09.30 the next day and so Daniel went ashore to do that and to hand the watch to the hire company staff so that they could contact the previous users of the vehicle. Shawn and Ally moved Imagination back alongside MV Lady Pohnpei in the harbour and Daniel met us there just as we finished tying up. Micronesia consists of 4 States and to move between them, yachts are required to clear in and out in the same way they do for international travel and so we paid our Port dues and were visited by Immigration and Customs.

We were away by 10.30 and had a comfortable downwind sail to privately owned Ant Atoll, our first atoll in a long time. The pass into the atoll is deep and long, edged by shallow reef and it was slow progress through an outgoing current and the nearby anchorage spot we chose ( Wikahlap) at 16.40 was pretty, calm and peaceful. We decided that the pass would make for a great drift snorkel with an incoming tide and so the next morning, having worked out tide times, we got our gear together and headed back to the pass in the dinghy. Just after we got to the pass entrance, the dinghy engine started to play up, probably as a result of all the rain we had in Pohnpei which is after all, one of the wettest places on earth! We also discovered that we had misjudged the tide times and the water was rushing out, not in and so we had to abandon the drift snorkel. Instead, we went to the other side of the reef and snorkelled along the drop off inside for a while. After lunch, we moved across the atoll to Pasa where 5 rangers live, guarding against poaching and maintaining conservation. The atoll is otherwise uninhabited by humans but is home to many seabirds, lizards and sharks. They were expecting us as they had received a phone call informing them when we bought the permit to visit in Kolonia, and we were warmly welcomed and told we could go anywhere and swim, snorkel etc and bbq if we wished. We had taken a few beers ashore with us and we sat in the shallow warm water, relaxing with up to 10 black tip reef sharks swimming up and down. This is a popular day trip destination from the mainland and the sharks are fed tinned tuna to entertain the tourists which is why they were loitering around us. The 8^th was Shawn’s birthday. He and Daniel went for a snorkel during the morning while Ally prepped food to take ashore for a BBQ that afternoon. She had found the perfect spot the day before – a shelter with 3 chairs and plenty of drinking coconuts that the Ranger had told us we could help ourselves to. One of the rangers bought us some wood to help us with lighting our fire and we enjoyed an afternoon of chatting, drinking a beer or 2 and Shawn fed the sharks a tin of tuna. It was a variable day weatherwise, but it didn’t spoil the relaxed time we had. On return to Imagination, Daniel made a tasty cocktail that was enjoyed with some birthday brownies and, of course, a game of Blob. We moved West across the atoll on the 9^th, anchoring close to an area of reef where Shawn and Daniel enjoyed a dive during the afternoon. The area between 2 small islands becomes exposed at low tide and so the following day, Ally and Shawn went looking for shells, unsuccessfully, before going for a snorkel, spotting a not-seen-by-them-before Whitecheek Surgeonfish. Sunday ( 11^th), Shawn dropped Daniel where he and Ally had snorkelled yesterday so that he could snorkel and then swim back to Imagination and when he was back onboard, we moved back to Pasa. Shawn and Ally spent time locating and sorting out a water leak in the washing machine cupboard before everyone got in the water to do a much needed bottom clean. Daniel and Shawn did a final snorkel before lunch the next day and we departed the anchorage at 13.55.

Our 67^1/2 hour sail to Murilo Atoll in the Hall Islands within Chuuk State was a windy and lumpy one and included being hit by a massive rogue wave at 02.30 on the second night, that made it’s way into Imagination through most of the windows and hatches and the saloon door, cascading down the stairs into the port corridor. It also snapped one of the stantion bases with the Kayak support ( although we didn’t realise this until after arrival). Later that morning, the lazy lines ( thin ropes holding the mainsail bag up) on the port side snapped, which was temporarily remedied by using a spare halyard, but the loose end at the top made it’s way between the mainsail and the mast so when we wanted to drop the sail it fouled with the cars and prevented it from coming down. Luckily for Ally, Daniel has climbing experience and he was happy to don the bosun’s chair and get hoisted up to sort the problem out. It wasn’t easy in the large swells and there was a fair bit of swinging about and knocking into the stays, but it was dealt with swiftly and we could safely drop the sail. As we came in to anchor near Murilo Island at 08.20 on the 15th, we could hear shouts and squeals from land and when we looked we saw lots of very excited children waving and jumping up and down….brilliant! We were all pretty weary, but thought we should go ashore to introduce ourselves and make sure it was ok to anchor where we had. Of course, we were greeted by the crowd of children who were so excited we had come ashore, but we were also guided to the beach, through the reef by Gillion, who introduced himself and welcomed us. He said he would find the Mayor for us and we should wait where we were, which was an open sided meeting house next to the school, set back a short distance from the beach. One of the school teachers came out and introduced herself as Lesley and she welcomed us to the island and told us she hadn’t been there long as she had recently moved from Pohnpei. The children hung around as did many adolescents and adults, just watching and waiting to see what we were going to do. We must look so strange to the youngest of the children as these islands are rarely visited by white folk due to their location. Ally gave a bundle of exercise books, pencils, pens and crayons to Lesley which she received very gratefully and then the children all got a lolly before being ushered in to start the school day. A young man bought each of us a coconut and a couple of minutes later Mayor Mian arrived and introduced himself. He seemed very stern while he welcomed us and asked what our reasons were for visiting but when we explained our circumnavigation and interest in local and remote communities and told him we had bought some provisions, he relaxed and invited us to walk with him to his home where we were offered coffee (we all politely declined as we know what a precious commodity this is in the islands). We talked for about half an hour with him and Gillion. Mian accepted the provisions for the community and offered us a huge bunch of bananas as we left to return to Imagination for a rest. When we got back to the yacht, 4 young men were waiting for us in a speedboat with no engine – they had come to offer us coconuts and pandanus and were extremely happy to be given a whole packet of cigarettes to share in return. Cigarettes are a powerful bargaining tool here, more so than in the Solomon Islands which is where we were expecting it, but it didn’t happen. They went off using a plank of wood and a palm frond as oars, but with the wind and the current they were not making any progress ( unless you count moving backwards and sideways) and so Shawn and Daniel went in the dinghy to tow them back to the village. A while later we were visited again, this time by 3 fishermen wanting to trade a rather nice shell and Japanese glass mooring ball – they were happy with the fishing gear they were given, too.

Late morning the following day ( 16^th) we went ashore just as school was finishing for the weekend. We took a few more supplies ashore to give to Mian as he explained previously that the island was running out of food and the supply boat wasn’t due for another couple of weeks. He was out fishing, so we went for a walk with some of the children as guides. We went onto the beach around to the windward side before going back across the island to the village. As we passed by one home, we were invited by the two ladies to have a seat at the table which had a Christmas supply drop parachute as a shade. Marianne introduced herself and her mother and we were given coffee and invited to eat ready made pancakes. We all accepted the coffee but only took a small section of the large pancakes as we didn’t want to take food away from the villagers. It was very tasty, light and fluffy and made without eggs as there are none. (It’s been so long since we had eggs and even Shawn’ birthday brownies were made without eggs, using banana as a substitute – they were pretty good, too!) Both ladies were cheerful and friendly and mum gave Ally a dress as a gift. It wasn’t until she put it on before departing that she realised the probable reason she was given it – the dress she was wearing was a little short! She felt an idiot – with knowledge of how things are in these remote, religious and conservative countries, she should have known better and covered up a little more…..she puts in down to a “night sail brain”! Every visit ashore thereafter, the dress was worn out of respect even though Ally has other suitable clothing! Mian was back by the time we got to his home and we gave him the extra items and Shawn also gave him and Gillion some fishing line, hooks and lures. After lunch, we all went out in the dinghy. Shawn and Daniel snorkelled for a while before we went across to another small island where we have a fairly successful shell hunt. Mian had asked if he could come on board for a beer and so on our way back to Imagination, we stopped to pick him up. What was meant to be one or two beers, turned into several as well as several Galliano’s – it was good to spend time chatting to him and he has done some interesting things including working on an Alaskan fishing vessel. He was invited to stay for dinner, but he declined, saying he had already eaten prior to coming onboard. We asked if we could show a movie for the kids the following evening and he told us that there is normally a 6pm curfew for children on the island but he would ask parents if they would be happy to chaperone the children. While Daniel and Shawn went snorkelling the next morning, Ally spent time sorting out a movie checking it worked with the beamer ( projector) and that she could link it to the speaker. We went ashore to check with Mian whether we could do it or not, and we were given the go ahead. We told him we would do it in the meeting house and that we would need the mobile white board from the school to use as a screen and would come ashore at around 6.15pm to set up, ready to start the movie at 7pm. We went back to Imagination and made 4 big bags of popcorn and packed everything up ready to take ashore. Daniel was going to go lobster hunting with a few guys while the movie was on and it was decided they would use our dinghy to do it, so fuel was sorted out for that before loading everything up to go ashore. We were a little later than planned getting ashore and here commences the “comedy of errors”:-

Throughout all of this, the kids sat quietly, seemingly engrossed and unaware, enjoying what they did see and hear and tucking in to the bags of popcorn. There were no complaints when the movie changed, or when it cut out completely and they all dispersed to their homes without fuss after a couple of sweeties each. Unbelievably, as we were taking everything back to the dinghy after the non-movie, we noticed the school was unlocked! They’d probably gone in there to get the tape for the sheet! You couldn’t make it up! And just to top the evening off, Daniel didn’t go lobster hunting either as a couple of the guys took their time getting ready and the tide was exceedingly low making navigating the reefs dangerous. So, back to Imagination for a debrief with a drink – we saw the funny side by the end of the evening

Sunday morning ( 18^th) Daniel was up bright and early to kayak ashore in time for the 8am church service. He was made very welcome and he enjoyed the experience. Ally and Shawn did a bit of tidying up and we were all hoping for a quiet, relaxed afternoon ready for an overnight sail. But, by the end of the afternoon we had 23 kids onboard, diving, jumping, playing or just sitting staring! We had an early dinner and had the anchor up at 17.30 for the overnight sail to Weno, Chuuk ( formerly Truk). It was a pleasant sail down and we were alongside the commercial dock ready to clear in by 09.10 on 19^th. Once all the formal stuff was completed, we were able to leave Imagination where she was while we went looking for more phone/data credit and found somewhere to have lunch. We found eggs too. Finally! Late afternoon, we moved to the South coast of the island, near to the Blue Lagoon Dive shop where Shawn and Daniel visited the following morning to arrange some dives as it is a requirement to go diving with a local guide here. Chuuk Lagoon was a Japanese Naval Base during WWII before they were defeated by the US in 1944. During the 3 day assault, they sank 44 ships, both war and merchant, along with many aircraft making the lagoon the largest ship graveyard in the world. These have created fantastic dive sites, for which the lagoon is now famous, making Chuuk a major dive destination. The staff at the dive shop invited us to move Imagination to a more protected and prettier location in front of the resort and so we moved just around the corner. We went across to the bar that evening for sundowners and a game of pool which was very pleasant.

Shawn and Daniel went out for 6 dives over 3 days ( 21^st, 23rd and 24th) which they very much enjoyed. They visited 5 wrecks and 5 of the 6 dives were penetration dives where the got to go into the shipwrecks, through corridors and into holds and a wheelhouse. Amongst some superb corals and various fish, they saw ammo, champagne bottles and glasses, gas masks, tanks, a flatbed truck, propellors and anchor chain. The 22^nd was a very wet, miserable day, so it was taken as a chill day between dive days. The morning of the 25th was spent cleaning and Daniel got himself organised to take the kayak and go camping and exploring some of the close by islands for the next 5 nights before returning to Imagination again next month. Of course, there were jobs that needed doing onboard that kept Shawn and Ally busy from 25th to 29th – repairing the snapped lazy line ( Ally’s turn to go up the mast), taking one of the GPS’s apart as it was malfunctioning, remedying the port engine ignition and cut out switch, fitting a new stantion base ( which involved taking cabin ceilings down and undoing the safety wires), laundry, cleaning, prepping for our next crew and destination research. For more dive pics, have a look at our facebook page, Sailing Crew Adventures with Scuba Diving 🙂

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